Carved onto slabs of black marble, the names of 11 young men from the Russian town of Semibratovo who died fighting in Ukraine are a stark reminder of a war that is now three years old.

It’s been years since this kind of energy has filled the historic Depot building, and with the opening of Le Depot Brasserie on Feb. 8 and its patisserie counterpart, Union, on Feb. 12, Katie and ...