PALERMO, Italy — Here is a quick quiz for the opera aficionado. The biggest opera house in Italy is in Milan, Venice or Palermo? Yes, Milan’s La Scala may have more seats, and La Fenice in la Venezia ...
After landing at Falcone Borsellino airport, named after two anti-Mafia magistrates, my attention is caught by the shimmering Mediterranean. Then, as I make my way into central Palermo on the A29, I ...