I won’t sugarcoat it: most surfers don’t want you to pick up their sport. Surfers can be territorial, aggressive jerks—especially to newbies. Though I’m not excusing that behavior, the instinct is ...

If there’s a single ingredient required to get better at surfing, it’s time. Time to practice. To paddle out. To pop to your feet. To fall. To try again. To make the drop and fly down the line. Time, ...