Europe is always changing — and on my last visit to Sicily’s capital of Palermo I discovered that it’s become a whole new city in recent years. It’s cleaner, safer, and more efficient than ...

Influenced by Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Norman and Spanish conquerors, the port city has ... native Palermo after years in New York, Paris and beyond to oversee this months-old restaurant.

To experience this cultural mosaic firsthand, start in Palermo ... To fully immerse yourself in the city, start with an intimate tour of the millenia-old Mercato di Ballarò, one of the oldest ...